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The
Classroom and Hands-On Training
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The
Classroom and Hands-On Training
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Obviously, not all
metal defects can be repaired without filing, sanding, or removing the
enamel or lacquer coatings on painted metal surfaces. The painted metal
surface must be broken when heavy damage to sheet metal occurs ie. Sharp
creases, dents and dings with pointed or stretched centers.
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Dents can be similarly raised in the same manner. Sometimes small, low pressure, circular movements called "ironing" or Massaging" can produce excellent results. Damage to more rigid areas may require the use of an acrylic or polished metal punch. Force can be exerted by hand or by softly tapping with a body hammer. 
Most vehicles with factory enamel paint have a slightly rough or "orange
peel" effect to its surface. If the metal defect is severe enough to
require marring its painted surface, taking advantage of this condition to
hide the repair is highly suggested. By matching tool marks in the orange
peel effect, you disguise the repair. At this point, the painted
surface can be "block" or sanded using a blocking stone or sandpaper of
not less than 1200 grit. The painted surface can then be buff
polished back to its original luster with time, effort, patience, and
practice, results will follow.
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However,
softer and smaller dents and dings, those with rounded center such as hail
damage can often be successfully repaired without paint damage. The
repair operation is basically similar in heavy metal repair, only a
lighter touch will be necessary. Gain access to the damaged areas
and locate the center of the dent or ding. Some dings can be pressed
back to their origin with only slight pressure using tools with
non-marring or highly polished surfaces.
